The manufacturer ’ sulfur instructions for your lavish enclosure or bathtub with shower provide the necessary minimum width of the wall containing the faucet and showerhead, called a “ wet wall ” in builder terminology. Include any flanges and add the thickness of the planned cement angel board, wall tile and any pack of cards — horizontal tiling around the tub opening — to come up with a figure in inches for the overall depth of the wall.
Standard framing principles apply to your framing preparations. meter, cross off and cut peak and bottom plates out of two-by-fours to the wall width. Clamp the plates together for quick preparation of the address marks for the stud. Mark the plates to take a stud at each end ; double these end dot if recommended by the shower enclosure ‘s manufacturer.
Your finish is to center the shower valve between studs 12 inches apart. A small cross off at the center of the plates, in line with where you expect the faucet and shower valve to be, helps for the next stage of this project. following, mark 6 inches on either side of the center.
Check if the distance between the flank dot and end scantling is more than 16 inches. If so, target a mark indicating an extra pair of scantling midway between the flank and end stud. More typically, for a tub or shower 30 to 36 inches wide, you ’ ll end up with four studs less than 16 inches apart, creating an facility that is more than code compliant.
If space permits, assemble the wet wall on the subfloor, nailing through the plates into the butt ends of the stud with 16d nails. Hoist the wall into identify and nail down it to the subfloor and the ceiling joists. If distance is cramped, nail the peak and bottom plates into stead first and then toenail the stud between them.
Cut two pieces of 2-by-6-foot lumber to act as crosspieces to fit between the stud flanking the shower valve. standard the distance to confirm it is 12 inches. Cut the 2-by-6 pieces on a chop visit precisely slightly longer than your measurement. Test-fit the crosspieces ’ fit and saw little slices off one end until it fits snugly without nails.
Hold the tub-shower valve against the bottom crosspiece. Line up the fictile face of the valve with a man of 1-inch scrap lumber, which is actually ¾ inch cryptic, tacked to the movement face of the stud. The trash represents the depth of ½-inch cement backboard and ¼-inch tile. Set back the crosspiece from the confront of the flank stud so that it just touches the metallic element straps that hold the valve in rate. Mark the flank stud with the correct position of the front man of the trave. Drive a single fuck through each side of the stud into the crosspieces, positioned so they are set back correctly from the stud faces and at the heights recommended by the shower enclosure or tub-and-shower faucet manufacturer. The lower trave, which will hold the shower valve, may be around 50 inches from the floor for a shower enclosure and lower for a bathtub — just enough to clear the brim of the tub by a few inches. The top trave, which supports the showerhead, may be 76 inches above the shock in a typical initiation.
Dry-fit the hot and cold risers from the floor to the bottom crosspiece and the showerhead riser from the exhibitor valve to the showerhead. Once you are satisfied with the dry fitting and the placement of the crosspieces, permanently screw them into place with three screws per side.